Monday, April 6, 2009

The art of lazy baking

Seems that life rewards the lazy.  Well, at least it did today. 

So, last night I was feeling daring.  I decided to risk it all.  I measured out 1/3 cup of starter, filled the rest of the cup with whole rye flour and dumped it in a bowl.  Then I added my 2 cups of my bread flour and the rest of the ingredients, so salt, honey and water all at once (1 tsp salt, 1 heaping tbsp honey, 1.5 or so cups water).  I added a bit more water, to make the dough softer than the normal “shaggy”, but I covered it and set it aside, overnight (so about 12 hours).  In the morning, it had risen beautifully.  I scooped the dough onto a floured surface, and decided to be even bolder.  After letting it rest for 15-20 minutes or so, I scooped it up (it was running away from me a bit), and I plopped it into my baking pot (which I first generously sprinkled with flour).  I put the pot, covered, in the oven (cold) and let it rise for 15-20 minutes.  Then I turned my oven to bake at 450, no preheating, just left the pot in there.  When it beeped to let me know it was at 450, I peeked under the cover, and it was rising so nicely.  I set the timer to 15 minutes.  At 15 minutes I took the top off. It had risen and split, looking fantastic. I could hardly contain myself. I let it bake another 15 minutes.  (Note: next time I’ll do it for 10 minutes, it was a bit too long and the crust was a bit dark, but I bet it depends on one’s oven or pot).  It looked like this:

It wasn’t perfect, it took on the shape of the pot, but it tastes awesome!  Seriously, it’s better than all earlier versions.  Moist, chewy, with a great crust.  Just heaven. 

I’m making no claim I’ve invented or even re-invented this recipe.  I just discovered it for myself, and it’s so satisfying to find a way to bake amazingly tasty bread at home without having to put a lot of effort into it.  Next I plan to try different flours and see what turns out.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

First things first, or let’s start with the starter

I’ve been meaning to translate and share the recipe I used for growing my starter.  I lifted it (with his gracious permission) from the author of the Polish Moja Piekarnia blog.  I asked him whether it would be OK if I translated and shared his recipes through my blog, and he said that he was all for it. 

So here it is, the “how to grow your own starter” recipe.  A word of warning, it’s not for the impatient or easily discouraged.  It takes trial and error (although I succeeded on my first attempt, and most people do), and time and time and time and did I mention time?  The key is not to give up and to let nature take its course, it will (most likely) be alright.  I personally used whole rye flour, but that’s because I did not have any medium rye flour on hand.  It is available in the United States, but as far as I have found, only if you order it online.  I haven’t seen it in stores.  Rye flour is way more popular in Eastern Europe than in the Unites States, where most bread is made out of wheat.  The reason why rye is a good flour for starter (and especially someone’s first ever starter) is that it is less refined and there’s more for the happy bacteria and yeast to digest.

For starters (ha!), if you don’t already own one, buy a kitchen scale.  The recipe is in milligrams, not cups and volume measures.  I did my first starter without one, and it was way more challenging than necessary.  You’ll want a flat one with a surface on which you can set a bowl and tare it to subtract its weight as you go.  I bought mine at Target, since they happened to have a sale, but even IKEA sells them.  A scale will run you $20-25 ($30-35 if you pick something fancy).

What is starter?  Well, if you want to be blunt about it, it’s really “spoiled” flour, or flour that has been mixed with water and left to ferment, meaning to be subjected to digestion by friendly bacteria and yeast from the environment.  Yes, that’s what is “sour” in sour dough.

You’ll need 3 ingredients:  flour, water, time… 5 days, to be specific.

You start by mixing 50-100 milligrams of rye flour with an equal amount (by weight) of water in a bowl and set it aside, covered, in a warm spot (77-86 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal to make bacteria and yeast happy).  If you have a server, put it near he server.  (Our computer room now smells like yeast, but we don’t mind.)  The other option is to set it near a vent (if you’re heating your house) or near your stove in the kitchen.   You repeat this process for 5 days, every 24 hours adding another 50-100 milligrams of flour and water.  It’s OK to stir the mixture once in a while to help the bacteria.  Your mixture may smell “funny” (as in, not pleasant), but that’s normal, and trust me, the bread will smell awesome.  As long as you don’t have mold, the starter will have its unique smell, depending on the balance of your homegrown beasties and yeasties.  The mixture should bubble and look something like this (since we’re using whole grain rye flour, it will be darker).

 

Young starter is likely to bubble much less, but don’t feel discouraged, over time it will get stronger.  Mine was seriously kicking behind by the third “generation” (3 loaves of bread later).   At the end you’ll end up with sufficient starter for more than one mixed flour bread. 

This is the basic recipe.  The rest is up to nature.  So don’t get discouraged if it takes longer or doesn’t go that well the first time.  If I succeeded despite the million kid related interruptions, delays, “oops” situations and such, then anyone can do this.

Friday, April 3, 2009

Attempt number two is a success (not unqualified, but a success for sure)

So, since a couple (OK, maybe three) people actually asked me how the bread turned out, I am updating.  Like I said in my earlier post, the results were more than encouraging, the salt SNAFU notwithstanding. 

I have refined the recipe some more this time, and tonight’s result (oh, and I made sure to add salt early in the process this time) is quite nice.  Still less of a rise, but I am sure it’s partially caused by the fact that I definitely let it rise too long (I was at the zoo with the kids all day instead of baking bread), so it had gotten a bit too moist and soggy (yeast ran out of stuff to “chew on”).  Still, it turned out really nice, which makes me feel good about the resilience of the recipe.

This time I used 1/3 cup of my whole rye starter, 2/3 cups whole rye flour, 1 teaspoon salt (original recipe calls for 1 1/4 teaspoons, but I don’t like salty bread, so it’s up to your palate), 2 cups bread flour and a total of 1.5 cups (approximate) of lukewarm water and 2 tablespoons (optional) of honey. 

The process I followed was to let the starter “wake up” at room temperature for about 45 minutes (it was in the refrigerator).  I added 2/3 cups of the rye flour and 1/2 cup lukewarm water to the starter along with my salt, mixed well, set aside (covered) in a warm spot (in this case on my microwave, close to the stove and my always hot water pot) and let it rise for 3 hours.  You want to see nice bubbling action, the starter will start looking like a sponge.  I will try to edit with a photo next time I do this.  Sorry, didn’t think about it this time.

I added my 1 cup bread flour along with 1/2 cup water and the honey at this stage, mixed well and again, let the mixture (covered) rise for 4 hours in a warm spot.  At that point I added the last cup of flour, another 1/2 cup of water (you want that shaggy dough, just a tad wetter).  I let that rise overnight, and should have baked then and there, but didn’t…

I will post a photo once my husband (who took the car that has the diaper bag that has the camera in it…) comes back.

ETA… And here it is:

So, it’s not pretty, but it tasted great.  Marc had some and commented on the complexity of the flavor, it’s the sour dough, giving it that “zing”, I said.

My plan is to keep playing with staging and hydration to see if I can get more oven spring and whether I can simplify the recipe further, adding all the bread flour at once.  I think my starter is strong enough to handle this.

Next I want to try to make some wheat starter and attempt a mixed bread like that.  More ambitious plans involve finding some flour ground more the flour for Polish bread.

Experiment update

Well, so the results are mixed, but it’s all my fault.  The bread rose, not as much as “regular” no-knead-bread, but nicely still.  It looks great and would taste great too except… I forgot to add salt!  Well, I have a great excuse – with one 3 3/4 year old and one 3/4 year old running (or crawling) around in the background as I was doing this, I got distracted.  So, I set that bread aside, and have started a new batch of dough with starter rising, this time paying more attention to time and amounts so I can record it.  I am sure I’ll keep tweaking.  If this loaf turns out, next I want to try adding all the flour in two steps instead of three to reduce the “fuss” and time spent on preparation.  I’ll post photos later on.  I promise.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

The great no-knead-bread-with-my-own-starter experiment

Wow, it’s been a while since I posted.  I haven’t stopped making bread at home.  Au contraire, I’ve been playing around with the no-knead recipe and I successfully baked several loaves with my own starter, perfecting my technique.  I am happy to report, that as far as the no-knead-bread goes, it doesn’t get any easier, because it’s so easy to begin with.  The basic change that seems to work regardless of flour type, is to substitute one cup of bread flour with one cup of whole grain flour of your choice (I’ve tried spelt, rye and whole wheat so far) and double the yeast from 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon and add honey (if you want).  Those have come out great.

But I’ve grown more ambitious in my experiments, and are currently trying to use home-grown whole rye starter instead of commercial yeast in the no-knead-bread recipe.  So far, so good, for Experiment #1, but I have a feeling it will need refining.  I used 1/2 cup starter, 1/2 cup whole rye flour, 2 cups of bread flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons of honey (I used Sage) and I didn’t pay much attention to how much water, since I was looking at the consistency of the dough.  I added the flour over time, not all at once, along with a bit of water each time.  It rose beautifully and is in the oven, we’ll see what comes out.  So far the biggest difference is that the dough was stickier (I needed more flour to keep it from sticking to the working surface, my hands, and the towel) and it does not have the “oven spring” of the no-knead-bread made with commercial yeast.  I have added 15 minutes to the clock with the cover on, and will check every 5-10 minutes.  I will post results (good and bad) later, along with photos, if it turns out presentable and palatable.  In any case, it’s the first time trying this, so I don’t expect complete success right away.